Geoemyda spengleri : Black-Breasted Leaf Turtle

Photo by Bill Love

The Captive Care of Geomyda spengleri , The Black-Breasted Leaf Turtle

by Russ Gurley, Director

Turtle and Tortoise Preservation Group

ABSTRACT

Many Asian species of freshwater turtles have the reputation of poor survival in captivity. Geomyda spengleri , the Black-breasted Leaf Turtle, is one such attractor of this type of recognition. We have found that by following aggressive prophylactic measures and by providing them with proper care and a large, well-planted vivarium, this species fares well in captivity. We have found this species to be alert, inquisitive, and quite docile in captivity and it should prove to be a very popular captive species.

Key words: Geomyda spengleri , Black-breasted Leaf Turtle, Natural history, prophylactic, vivarium.

NATURAL HISTORY

Geomyda spengleri is a small Asian turtle that is well-known among Asian turtle enthusiasts. This species is characterized by a flattened carapace that is brownish to brownish-orange with three low longitudinal keels and serrated back margins. The plastron is dark brown to black and gives G. spengleri its common name - the Black-breasted Leaf Turtle. The head is brown to dark brown with faint yellow stripes running from the eye and along the neck. The toes of G. spengleri are partially webbed alluding to its close ties with flowing mountain streams.

Adult males typically have orange to red-orange speckling on their front legs and neck, which is quite intense during the breeding season. The carapace also takes on an orange to red-orange hue during this time. They have large, long tails and a slightly concave plastron. Adult females have shorter tails and do not undergo the color changes seen in males.

Geomyda spengleri is found from Kwangsi, Kwangtung, Hainan Island in southern China through Vietnam to the islands of Sumatra and Borneo (Ernst and Barbour, 1989).

The Black-breasted Leaf Turtle is primarily terrestrial and is found near cool freshwater streams in its native habitat. It feeds primarily on worms and small aquatic insects in the wild (Pritchard, 1979).

CAPTIVITY

This small personable turtle was imported into the United States in large numbers during the late 1980s and early 1990s. Its alert, upraised head and large inquisitive eyes make it attractive to most turtle keepers. Unfortunately , G. spengleri has a history of doing poorly long-term in captivity. There are many anecdotal stories of keepers losing leaf turtles in large numbers, and therefore this species is known in the hobby as one that does not do well. Often, it is reported that this turtle dies due to excessive heat in its captive environment. We, however, have found that spengleri does not seem to be affected detrimentally by the heat of our facilities, which remain around 80º F throughout the year. Quite the contrary, these little turtles are thriving!

We believe that a great deal of our success with spengleri is due to an aggressive and early worming procedure and placement of specimens into a large, well-planted naturalistic vivarium where they are fed a wide variety of invertebrate prey and they are allowed to establish themselves with as little stress as possible. Upon arrival, all specimens are promptly rehydrated and treated prophylactically with flagyl® (metronidazole) and Baytril® (enrofloxacin). After two to three days, they are offered a selection of mealworms, earthworms, and crickets, which they seem to relish - especially the worms. After the first week, the turtles are offered a flat dish of mealworms and waxworms, which have been liberally coated with liquid Panacur® (fenbendazole). They are watched carefully and each individual's intake of Panacur® is monitored to make sure that all get some and none get too much. (Occasionally, when picked up, a nervous specimen may open its mouth and may be wormed with a dropper, but I have found that this happens with only a few animals.) A second and third worming is carried out over the next 6-8 weeks with a ten day break in between wormings. After this process, G. spengleri seems to really "kick in" and prosper. They are more alert and their appetites greatly increase. Light individuals tend to fatten up and put on a healthy amount of weight.

We suggest a quarantine period and this rigorous treatment for stress and parasites for at least 60 days before introducing any new turtles to your existing collection.

G. spengleri does well in a variety of set-ups. We have kept them in large stock tanks, aquariums, and even wooden cages. Our "rule of thumb" for their enclosure is the same for all of our turtles and tortoises . . . the bigger, the better. We use a substrate of ½ damp sand, ¼ peat moss, and ¼ Metromix® (a potting soil with no perlite or other additives). We add several large potted plants to keep humidity high and a large flat water dish that is switched out every day with a sterilized dish containing clean, fresh water. The turtles will often soak for an hour each day, defecate in the water dish, and return to the safety of the overhanging leaves of some Sanseveria or ivy. Often, after only a few weeks, the turtles will remain in the open, partially buried in the substrate, and most will take food items offered by hand.

Our G. spengleri are only fed two to three times each week. We offer mealworms, giant mealworms, crickets, and their favorite . . . earthworms. All of these items are consumed greedily and if not watched closely, will consume them in large quantities. We feel that intake of food should be controlled so that these small turtles do not become obese. Obesity is a life-altering condition in captive turtles and can produce kidney and liver problems which increase mortality and decrease life span. We have not had spengleri accept any dry diet (trout chow, Reptomin®, etc.) as do many other Asian species.

The Black-breasted Leaf Turtle has unexpectedly turned out to be one of the most personable and appealing turtles in our program at the Turtle and Tortoise Preservation Group. Being small, they are easy to keep and maintain and their food requirements are easily met. They are alert and inquisitive and show some of the interesting behaviors that make our hobby worthwhile.

Please note: There are many stories out there in the turtle world relating to the "ease" or "difficulty" of keeping certain species. We found very quickly that many of these stories are based on old gossip or anecdotal tales relating to only a few improperly kept or poorly imported animals. Often, faint recollections of bad experiences in keeping an animal years ago, has made hobbyists unwilling to attempt the keeping of a "difficult" species. We urge you to explore these species. You may find, as we have, that a problem animal may become an exciting, fascinating, and successful project.

REFERENCES

Ernst, C. H. and Barbour, R. W., 1989, Turtles of the World, USA: Smithsonian Institution.

Pritchard, P.C.H. 1979 The Encyclopedia of Turtles, TFH Inc., Neptune, N.J.

FURTHER READING

Zhao, Er-Mi and Adler, K., 1993 , Herpetology of China , USA: Society for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles.

The Black-breasted Leaf Turtle, Geoemyda spengleri (Gmelin 1789)

by Paula Morris and Chris Tabaka DVM

This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential.

The diminutive Spengler's turtle, with its owl-like eyes and strongly serrated marginals, is one of the most engaging, animated and agile of the Asian species. You have to turn it over to see its most distinguishing feature, a dark, unpatterned plastron with a yellow lateral border. The shell is flattened instead of domy, and the toes of both front and rear legs are partially webbed. A yellow head stripe runs from near the tympanum down the neck on the females, but is less prominent on the males.

The natural range is from Kwangsi, Kwangtung, and Hainan Islands in southern China through Vietnam to the islands of Sumatra, Borneo, and Okinawa (Ernst and Barbour). It's primarily terrestrial but has been observed at the edge of freshwater streams.

There's a paucity of information on the Spengler's wild routine, but those who keep them in captivity in any number report there is strong territoriality on the part of both males and females. So keepers either provide generous accommodation for multiple males or house them with one or more females and no other male. Their group dynamics are subtle but powerful and a less assertive male (or even female) may stop eating and drinking and eventually die from being intimidated. Stress, as always, is an underrated but important consideration in the housing of any chelonian species.

If you acquire a new turtle, quarantine for a minimum of six months prior to introduction to the others and get a complete health examination from a veterinarian conversant with reptiles. Chelonians are experts at appearing healthy, even if they're not. A single diseased animal can infect and kill your collection. It should be noted that drug dosage and administration information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and possibly dangerous, please leave drug advice to trained professionals.

If you purchase a wild-caught G. spengleri , be sure to examine it for ticks under a magnifier. Swab any you find with a dab of Vaseline petroleum jelly, wait a few minutes, and carefully pick them off with tweezers.

HOUSING SPENGLER'S TURTLES INDOORS – Expert climbers, G. spengleri will need to be housed in a habitat with either an inward-facing lip or a mesh covering to prevent climb-outs. Avoid placing any shelter, rock or plants flush with the sides of a pen; spengleri will make use of them! But to keep your spengleri active and interested in his habitat, you must provide contour in various forms.

Contrary to what some references say about spengleri not being fond of water, I and other keepers have found that they're quite happy to sit in their water for periods of time. Again, given the territoriality of these turtles, I advise having at least one water dish more than the number of turtles you are keeping in the pen. The alpha female at one zoo has to be temporarily removed from the display's only water source (a pool beneath a trickling waterfall) so that the other turtles can drink and soak. Even something as small as a plastic Rubbermaid® sandwich container that each turtle can immerse itself in and soak in peace will be welcomed. I have seen the alphas in my groups try to chase away others from their favorite dishes. Having small, multiple water sources in addition to one large communal dish will allow all to stay hydrated, especially important for this species.

Breaking up the “vista” in an enclosure with plants, rocks and shelters gives each turtle a chance to feel safe from the others, provides interesting contour, and a chance to wear down the claws. Males like to be ‘lookouts', taking the highest position available in a habitat. Alpha females may do this also. Providing an especially elevated spot will be much appreciated by your spengleri .

I use terra cotta roof tiles for shelters (see photo). These can be laid side-by-side and partially covered with a substrate of sterile potting soil (no perlite or vermiculite) and orchid bark. A third roof tile can added atop the other two after filling in the crevice with substrate. Plants of a vine-y nature provide additional shelter and pleasant greenery.

The G. spengleri favor subdued light (those owl eyes of theirs) and do not like to be too warm a temperature; they must be allowed to retreat to a dark, unheated area of their containment. They can tolerate temperatures between 68-80F. Humidity can come from their water dishes and spritzing with a plant mister a couple of times a day. But they do like a bit of basking heat, so have available during daylight hours a low-wattage basking heat lamp (40-Watt) for thermoregulation.

You can always make a spengleri happy by offering a variety of invertebrates, foremost among which are the night crawlers; they love to hunt anything that moves. Snails and calcium dusted crickets are also favorites. Offer mealworms, but in moderation; they're not that nutritious and their chitinous exoskeletons could lead to impaction.

After having my group for three years I'm now able to give them fruit and vegetables. They favor red fruit like strawberries, red grapes, plums and tomatoes, but I've managed to slide in finely chopped ruby yam, diced cucumber and shreds of zucchini. I add calcium powder, vitamins and finely snipped orchard grass (fiber) to this mix and all of them love it. Start offering a variety of fruit and minced vegetables in addition to the live foods and perservere; they'll eventually come around, particularly drawn by anything red.

Diet:

I nvertebrates , especially earthworms
Fruit and vegetables

Medical

Primary pathology with the G. spengleri is entamoeba leading to secondary infections leading to sepsis leading to death. Once G. spengleri start to go downhill, they are nearly impossible to recover but are so tough that they hold out for a long time even when their organs are well beyond repair. It is not unusual for necropsy pictures to show classic sepsis lesions loss of functional liver due to abscessation.

Metronidazole is an extremely important aspect of any medical protocols with Asian market chelonia. In holding areas and shipping, terrestrial chelonia are mixed with aquatics which carry entamoeba. This then infects the terrestrials who have little resistance to it leading to mucosal GI erosions. These erosions lead to bacteria in the bloodstream which leads to liver, lung, renal abscesses and subsequently death. Please note: Any administration of drugs should be under qualified veterinary guidance.

Males are weaker than females in this species.

Shell lesions are fairly common in this species. Many shell lesions appear to be the result of being kept at temperatures that are too high. While it seems odd keeping a reptile at cool temps, (68 - 72 F except for the basking area) they thrive in this type of microhabitat.

Turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at www.chelonia.org . Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.

Photo by Michael Nesbit / www.turtletracker.com


	Geoemyda spengleri : Black-Breasted Leaf Turtle Photo by Bill Love *The Captive Care of Geomyda spengleri* , The Black-Breasted Leaf Turtle by Russ Gurley, Director Turtle and Tortoise Preservation Group ABSTRACT** Many Asian species of freshwater turtles have the reputation of poor survival in captivity. Geomyda spengleri , the Black-breasted Leaf Turtle, is one such attractor of this type of recognition. We have found that by following aggressive prophylactic measures and by providing them with proper care and a large, well-planted vivarium, this species fares well in captivity. We have found this species to be alert, inquisitive, and quite docile in captivity and it should prove to be a very popular captive species. Key words: Geomyda spengleri , Black-breasted Leaf Turtle, Natural history, prophylactic, vivarium. NATURAL HISTORY Geomyda spengleri is a small Asian turtle that is well-known among Asian turtle enthusiasts. This species is characterized by a flattened carapace that is brownish to brownish-orange with three low longitudinal keels and serrated back margins. The plastron is dark brown to black and gives G. spengleri its common name - the Black-breasted Leaf Turtle. The head is brown to dark brown with faint yellow stripes running from the eye and along the neck. The toes of G. spengleri are partially webbed alluding to its close ties with flowing mountain streams. Adult males typically have orange to red-orange speckling on their front legs and neck, which is quite intense during the breeding season. The carapace also takes on an orange to red-orange hue during this time. They have large, long tails and a slightly concave plastron. Adult females have shorter tails and do not undergo the color changes seen in males. Geomyda spengleri is found from Kwangsi, Kwangtung, Hainan Island in southern China through Vietnam to the islands of Sumatra and Borneo (Ernst and Barbour, 1989). The Black-breasted Leaf Turtle is primarily terrestrial and is found near cool freshwater streams in its native habitat. It feeds primarily on worms and small aquatic insects in the wild (Pritchard, 1979). CAPTIVITY This small personable turtle was imported into the United States in large numbers during the late 1980s and early 1990s. Its alert, upraised head and large inquisitive eyes make it attractive to most turtle keepers. Unfortunately , G. spengleri has a history of doing poorly long-term in captivity. There are many anecdotal stories of keepers losing leaf turtles in large numbers, and therefore this species is known in the hobby as one that does not do well. Often, it is reported that this turtle dies due to excessive heat in its captive environment. We, however, have found that spengleri does not seem to be affected detrimentally by the heat of our facilities, which remain around 80º F throughout the year. Quite the contrary, these little turtles are thriving! We believe that a great deal of our success with spengleri is due to an aggressive and early worming procedure and placement of specimens into a large, well-planted naturalistic vivarium where they are fed a wide variety of invertebrate prey and they are allowed to establish themselves with as little stress as possible. Upon arrival, all specimens are promptly rehydrated and treated prophylactically with flagyl® (metronidazole) and Baytril® (enrofloxacin). After two to three days, they are offered a selection of mealworms, earthworms, and crickets, which they seem to relish - especially the worms. After the first week, the turtles are offered a flat dish of mealworms and waxworms, which have been liberally coated with liquid Panacur® (fenbendazole). They are watched carefully and each individual's intake of Panacur® is monitored to make sure that all get some and none get too much. (Occasionally, when picked up, a nervous specimen may open its mouth and may be wormed with a dropper, but I have found that this happens with only a few animals.) A second and third worming is carried out over the next 6-8 weeks with a ten day break in between wormings. After this process, G. spengleri seems to really "kick in" and prosper. They are more alert and their appetites greatly increase. Light individuals tend to fatten up and put on a healthy amount of weight. We suggest a quarantine period and this rigorous treatment for stress and parasites for at least 60 days before introducing any new turtles to your existing collection. G. spengleri does well in a variety of set-ups. We have kept them in large stock tanks, aquariums, and even wooden cages. Our "rule of thumb" for their enclosure is the same for all of our turtles and tortoises . . . the bigger, the better. We use a substrate of ½ damp sand, ¼ peat moss, and ¼ Metromix® (a potting soil with no perlite or other additives). We add several large potted plants to keep humidity high and a large flat water dish that is switched out every day with a sterilized dish containing clean, fresh water. The turtles will often soak for an hour each day, defecate in the water dish, and return to the safety of the overhanging leaves of some Sanseveria or ivy. Often, after only a few weeks, the turtles will remain in the open, partially buried in the substrate, and most will take food items offered by hand. Our G. spengleri are only fed two to three times each week. We offer mealworms, giant mealworms, crickets, and their favorite . . . earthworms. All of these items are consumed greedily and if not watched closely, will consume them in large quantities. We feel that intake of food should be controlled so that these small turtles do not become obese. Obesity is a life-altering condition in captive turtles and can produce kidney and liver problems which increase mortality and decrease life span. We have not had spengleri accept any dry diet (trout chow, Reptomin®, etc.) as do many other Asian species. The Black-breasted Leaf Turtle has unexpectedly turned out to be one of the most personable and appealing turtles in our program at the Turtle and Tortoise Preservation Group. Being small, they are easy to keep and maintain and their food requirements are easily met. They are alert and inquisitive and show some of the interesting behaviors that make our hobby worthwhile. Please note: There are many stories out there in the turtle world relating to the "ease" or "difficulty" of keeping certain species. We found very quickly that many of these stories are based on old gossip or anecdotal tales relating to only a few improperly kept or poorly imported animals. Often, faint recollections of bad experiences in keeping an animal years ago, has made hobbyists unwilling to attempt the keeping of a "difficult" species. We urge you to explore these species. You may find, as we have, that a problem animal may become an exciting, fascinating, and successful project. REFERENCES Ernst, C. H. and Barbour, R. W., 1989, Turtles of the World, USA: Smithsonian Institution. Pritchard, P.C.H. 1979 The Encyclopedia of Turtles, TFH Inc., Neptune, N.J. FURTHER READING Zhao, Er-Mi and Adler, K., 1993 , Herpetology of China , USA: Society for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles. The Black-breasted Leaf Turtle, Geoemyda spengleri (Gmelin 1789) by Paula Morris and Chris Tabaka DVM This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential. The diminutive Spengler's turtle, with its owl-like eyes and strongly serrated marginals, is one of the most engaging, animated and agile of the Asian species. You have to turn it over to see its most distinguishing feature, a dark, unpatterned plastron with a yellow lateral border. The shell is flattened instead of domy, and the toes of both front and rear legs are partially webbed. A yellow head stripe runs from near the tympanum down the neck on the females, but is less prominent on the males. The natural range is from Kwangsi, Kwangtung, and Hainan Islands in southern China through Vietnam to the islands of Sumatra, Borneo, and Okinawa (Ernst and Barbour). It's primarily terrestrial but has been observed at the edge of freshwater streams. There's a paucity of information on the Spengler's wild routine, but those who keep them in captivity in any number report there is strong territoriality on the part of both males and females. So keepers either provide generous accommodation for multiple males or house them with one or more females and no other male. Their group dynamics are subtle but powerful and a less assertive male (or even female) may stop eating and drinking and eventually die from being intimidated. Stress, as always, is an underrated but important consideration in the housing of any chelonian species. If you acquire a new turtle, quarantine for a minimum of six months prior to introduction to the others and get a complete health examination from a veterinarian conversant with reptiles. Chelonians are experts at appearing healthy, even if they're not. A single diseased animal can infect and kill your collection. It should be noted that drug dosage and administration information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and possibly dangerous, please leave drug advice to trained professionals. If you purchase a wild-caught G. spengleri , be sure to examine it for ticks under a magnifier. Swab any you find with a dab of Vaseline petroleum jelly, wait a few minutes, and carefully pick them off with tweezers. HOUSING SPENGLER'S TURTLES INDOORS – Expert climbers, G. spengleri will need to be housed in a habitat with either an inward-facing lip or a mesh covering to prevent climb-outs. Avoid placing any shelter, rock or plants flush with the sides of a pen; spengleri will make use of them! But to keep your spengleri active and interested in his habitat, you must provide contour in various forms. Contrary to what some references say about spengleri not being fond of water, I and other keepers have found that they're quite happy to sit in their water for periods of time. Again, given the territoriality of these turtles, I advise having at least one water dish more than the number of turtles you are keeping in the pen. The alpha female at one zoo has to be temporarily removed from the display's only water source (a pool beneath a trickling waterfall) so that the other turtles can drink and soak. Even something as small as a plastic Rubbermaid® sandwich container that each turtle can immerse itself in and soak in peace will be welcomed. I have seen the alphas in my groups try to chase away others from their favorite dishes. Having small, multiple water sources in addition to one large communal dish will allow all to stay hydrated, especially important for this species. Breaking up the “vista” in an enclosure with plants, rocks and shelters gives each turtle a chance to feel safe from the others, provides interesting contour, and a chance to wear down the claws. Males like to be ‘lookouts', taking the highest position available in a habitat. Alpha females may do this also. Providing an especially elevated spot will be much appreciated by your spengleri . I use terra cotta roof tiles for shelters (see photo). These can be laid side-by-side and partially covered with a substrate of sterile potting soil (no perlite or vermiculite) and orchid bark. A third roof tile can added atop the other two after filling in the crevice with substrate. Plants of a vine-y nature provide additional shelter and pleasant greenery. The *G. spengleri* favor subdued light (those owl eyes of theirs) and do not like to be too warm a temperature; they must be allowed to retreat to a dark, unheated area of their containment. They can tolerate temperatures between 68-80F. Humidity can come from their water dishes and spritzing with a plant mister a couple of times a day. But they do like a bit of basking heat, so have available during daylight hours a low-wattage basking heat lamp (40-Watt) for thermoregulation. You can always make a spengleri happy by offering a variety of invertebrates, foremost among which are the night crawlers; they love to hunt anything that moves. Snails and calcium dusted crickets are also favorites. Offer mealworms, but in moderation; they're not that nutritious and their chitinous exoskeletons could lead to impaction. After having my group for three years I'm now able to give them fruit and vegetables. They favor red fruit like strawberries, red grapes, plums and tomatoes, but I've managed to slide in finely chopped ruby yam, diced cucumber and shreds of zucchini. I add calcium powder, vitamins and finely snipped orchard grass (fiber) to this mix and all of them love it. Start offering a variety of fruit and minced vegetables in addition to the live foods and perservere; they'll eventually come around, particularly drawn by anything red. Diet: I nvertebrates , especially earthworms Fruit and vegetables Medical Primary pathology with the *G. spengleri* is entamoeba leading to secondary infections leading to sepsis leading to death. Once G. spengleri start to go downhill, they are nearly impossible to recover but are so tough that they hold out for a long time even when their organs are well beyond repair. It is not unusual for necropsy pictures to show classic sepsis lesions loss of functional liver due to abscessation. Metronidazole is an extremely important aspect of any medical protocols with Asian market chelonia. In holding areas and shipping, terrestrial chelonia are mixed with aquatics which carry entamoeba. This then infects the terrestrials who have little resistance to it leading to mucosal GI erosions. These erosions lead to bacteria in the bloodstream which leads to liver, lung, renal abscesses and subsequently death. Please note: Any administration of drugs should be under qualified veterinary guidance. Males are weaker than females in this species. Shell lesions are fairly common in this species. Many shell lesions appear to be the result of being kept at temperatures that are too high. While it seems odd keeping a reptile at cool temps, (68 - 72 F except for the basking area) they thrive in this type of microhabitat. Turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at www.chelonia.org . Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust. Copyright © 2003, 2004 World Chelonian Trust. All rights reserved Photo by Michael Nesbit / www.turtletracker.com
	Copyright 2004 © The Asian Turtle Consortium